0GarmentManufacturingBestPractices&Procedures生產(chǎn)管控范例和程序

1Content分類目錄PieceGoodsHandling&Processing面料管理程序Cutting裁剪Accessories/Trims/SundriesStorage輔料存儲SewingLines車縫Finishing&PackingControls后整和包裝QualityManagement品質(zhì)管理21.PieceGoodsHandling&Processing面料的管理和程序Importantprocesstomanageon-timegarmentdeliverytocustomer確保準時交貨的重要步驟MaterialFirstQuality原料品質(zhì)第一MaterialOnTimeDelivery原料準時交付3Warehouse倉庫Fabricshouldbestoredinracksoronpalettesinanorganizedfashion.面料必須分類存放在貨架或臺板上NoFabricrollsshouldbeonthefloororstandingonend.面料不可以直接放在地上或豎立NoOpenorbrokenpackaging.包裝不可以打開或破損Keepfabricsoutofdirectsunlight.面料不可以被陽光直射4Warehouse(cont’d)Fabricsshouldbesegregatedbycolor/shade/customer.面料需按照客戶/顏色/缸號分別存放Identifiedclearlywithinformationpertainingtoeachstyle.每款面料必須有清晰明顯的標簽5Fabricinspection面料檢驗ImmediatelyuponfabricarrivalInspectminimum10%acrossallcolor/dyelots.面料入庫后應(yīng)盡快抽取至少10%檢驗，抽樣需包括全部顏色/缸號Increaseinspectionasrequiredbaseduponproblemsfound.發(fā)現(xiàn)問題后需增加檢驗數(shù)量Ensuregoodconditionandlayoutoffabricinspectionmachine.確保驗布機的功能完好Inspect&recordusing4-pointsystem.面料檢驗使用4分制標準6Fabricinspection(cont’d)Fabricinspectionreport面料檢驗報告Completedinspectionresultwithconclusion&actiontakenforproblemdetected.LookforManagersignatures.完整的檢驗結(jié)果包括發(fā)現(xiàn)問題后的結(jié)論和處理方法，管理層的簽署Reportsandfabricswatchestobekeptonthefabricinspectionsection檢驗報告和樣卡必須存放在面料檢驗部Fabricinspectionreportwithfabricswatchesattached面料檢驗報告和布樣7Fabricinspection(cont’d)Visuallibraryoffabricdefectstobedisplayednearthefabricinspectionareatobeusedasguidanceandcontinuouslearning在面料檢驗區(qū)域張貼面料瑕疵樣，以便在檢驗時對照和參考8Fabricinspection(cont’d)Separateclearlymarkedquarantineareaforrejectedfabric檢驗不合格的面料需存放在有明顯標注的隔離區(qū)Onlyreleasethequalifiedfabricforproduction

產(chǎn)品只能使用檢驗合格的面料9In-housefabrictesting&control面料內(nèi)部測試和控制Animportantmanufacturingprocesstoensurequalityofproducts確保生產(chǎn)品質(zhì)的重要程序Acompulsoryrequirementforfactorytoverifyfabricqualitypriortoproceedbulk這是強制要求，工廠必須在大貨生產(chǎn)前檢驗面料In-housetestrecordsshouldbecompleted/wellorganizedwithneededinformationfortrackinginadditiontofabric&garmenttestreportsbyapproved3rdpartylab內(nèi)部測試記錄需完整，包括除了由認可的第三方檢驗室出具的面料和成衣測試報告外以及其他必須的檢測記錄10In-housefabrictesting&control(cont’d)Weightcontrol克重控制Alldye-lotsweighedandcomparedtostandard.測試所有缸號的克重并與標準比對11In-housefabrictesting&control(cont’d)Shadebandcontrol缸差控制Lightboxwillbeneededforshadecheckingandgrouping;需使用燈箱來查看和分類Shadebandcardfornon-washedprogram不水洗的缸差表Checkallrollsagainstapprovedcolorstandardundercustomer’srequiredlightsources;在客人確認的燈光下用確認的色樣與每疋布對比GroupsimilarshadesbyPObeforecutting.裁剪前按合同數(shù)量來分配使用相同或接近的缸號AB122.Cutting裁剪Appropriateequipmenttobeused使用合適的設(shè)備Cuttingtablesarewellmaintained裁剪臺維護得當Clean,freeofStickers,Tape,Damagedsurfacesandlevel.整潔，無多余的貼紙，膠帶，破損和平整13Priortocutting裁剪前Fabricrelaxationbeforespreading:拉布前先松布Usingappropriatemachinetorelaxthefabricrolls;使用合適的設(shè)備松布Appropriateshelvestorelax&storebyindividualroll每疋布需分開松布和松布后存放Mustbecoveredtoprotectfromdustatalltimeduringstorage.存放時要覆蓋好避免灰塵Atleast24hrsforknitandwovenfabricwithspandex;12hrsfornormalknitfabricwithoutspandex;

針梭織的彈力布至少松布24小時，無彈力針織布至少需12小時Cleardisplayedrecordoffabricrelaxationtime.松布記錄需清楚顯示松布時間Fabricrelaxingmachine松布機Hangtagstodisplayeddetail貨架上的標示牌

WellCoveredShelves/racksforindividualfabricrolls貨架上正確存放放松后的面料14Priortocutting(cont’d)Fabricpre-shrunkmachine面料防縮機Itishighlyrecommendedtousethemachinetopre-shrinkthefabricwithunstableshrinkagetoavoidmeasurementdeviationonbulk.極度推薦使用此防縮機來避免因為面料的不穩(wěn)定縮率影響大貨尺寸15Priortocutting(cont’d)Shadelotstobesegregatedfromcuttingtopacking;缸差分類需從裁剪開始直到包裝Cuttingplan/ticketareissuedbydye/shadelot;分缸從裁剪計劃/標貼缸號開始Afabriclayerreporttoidentifynumberoffabriclayers,fabricusedperrollandtheyardageofexcessfabricperrollisrecommendedforrecordkeeping裁剪記錄需記錄每疋布的疋號，拉布的層數(shù)，和剩余數(shù)量(itwilleventuallyhelpthecuttingroomstafftocreateabundlecontrolreports這些數(shù)據(jù)可以幫助裁剪人員建立完整的控制報告).16Priortocutting(cont’d)Spreading拉布Checkmarkersforstyle/PO#,components,grainline,pattern/napdirection,notchesandsizes;檢查嘜架上的款號/合同號，組件，布紋線，剪切口和尺寸等Ideallyusingtensionfreespreadingmachinetoavoidpullingorstretchingofthefabric.建議使用自動拉布機，避免人工造成的拉力不穩(wěn)定Fabriclots/rollstobesegregatedtocontrolshades;

面料需分缸Spreadingheight(subjecttothefabricnature):不同面料的拉布高度Woven≦5”梭織類不高于5英寸Knit≦4”針織類不高于4英寸Fleece≦6”絨毛類不高于6英寸Denim:牛仔類

≦60-70pilesfor11.5-12.5oz11.5-12.5安士的不超過60-70層

≦80pilesforbelow10oz10安士以下的不超過80層17Whilecutting裁剪時

Acompliancerequirementforcuttersistousesteelglove裁剪工人必須強制使用金屬手套Metalclampsusedtoholdedgeofeachlayorbundle使用金屬夾子固定布邊和分包18Aftercutting裁剪后Panelschecking:裁片檢查Cutpanelaccuracyaudit裁片偏刀檢查Takingtop,middleandbottomlayersofeachcriticalbundleandcomparingwithpattern.從裁片的上/中/下各抽取一片與紙板比對Cutpanelquality裁片品質(zhì)

Theneedtoperformthisshouldbedeterminedbaseduponfabricinspectionresults.根據(jù)面料檢驗的標準去檢驗裁片Anyfabricdefectivepartfound,replacethepanelusingthelayreporttolocatetheremnantyardage.配片應(yīng)根據(jù)裁剪記錄找回同一疋布的余布去配換Discrepanciesarereportedwithcorrectionandimprovement.有問題時記錄上必須有改正或改善的方案19Aftercutting(cont’d)Panelnumberingtoidentifytheshadelot裁片編號用于缸號識別

Throughoutsewingprocessuntilpacking(exceptforgarmentsthatrequirewashing);控制從車縫直到包裝（除成衣水洗外）Whengarmentsarewashed:成衣水洗eachcutiskeptinpalletsseparatelyandclearlyidentified;按缸號分包并標示清楚differentcutsarenotfedinsamewashingload分缸水洗Cutpanelfeedingtosewingline裁片進車間Insidelargebinsortrolleys,buttobecoveredatalltimeduringstoragebetweenthecuttingandsewingfloors裁片在由裁剪房運送到車間時，需全程覆蓋好用箱子或手推車運送203.Accessories/Trims/SundriesStorage輔料倉庫

Shouldbewellpacked,covered,organizedandidentified輔料存放必須整齊，有序，覆蓋并標識清楚Properlystoredandorganizedbystyle;按款式分別存放和管理CheckedinQuality&Quantity;品質(zhì)和數(shù)量檢驗VerifiedagainstapprovedspecimenandBOM;確認樣板和物料清單Reportdocumentedwithcorrectionactionsoncetheproblemidentified&evaluated.如果發(fā)現(xiàn)問題，報告文件上應(yīng)有改善或糾正方案和行動Duplicatedtrimcardswithsamplesforeachrelevantproductionsections.所有相關(guān)生產(chǎn)部門都必須有輔料卡與輔料實樣214.Sewing車縫Sewinglinesshouldbewellorganizedandsetupneatlyinordertogivethemosteffectiveproductionflow.車縫線應(yīng)該有完善的管理并設(shè)定高效生產(chǎn)流程Appropriatemachineryisequippedtoenhancetheworkmanship&productivity;使用適當?shù)脑O(shè)備有助于提高工藝和產(chǎn)能Appropriateattachments,guides,folders&templatesareusedtoenhancethequalityconsistencyandproductivity.Piecesoftapearenotconsideredtobeappropriateguides.適當?shù)妮o助工具，指引書，文件和模板將有助于保持品質(zhì)的一致和效能的提高，Skillleveloftheoperatorsandqualitymind-setofthesupervisors/Managementsupportingthecontinuedqualityimprovement.工人的技能水平和管理人員的心態(tài)都會影響到品質(zhì)的持續(xù)提高程度Monitoringeachprocessatrighttiming,notonlyforqualitybutforproductioncontrol.在適當時間內(nèi)監(jiān)管每道工序，不單只是品質(zhì)而是整個生產(chǎn)控制22Machinemaintenance&repair設(shè)備保養(yǎng)和維修PreventativeMaintenanceProgramssetuptoensureallsewingequipmentisingoodcondition:制定設(shè)備防護檢修系統(tǒng)，保障設(shè)備維持良好狀態(tài)Dailymaintenance&cleanlinesschecklist每日維護和清潔的檢查記錄Monthlymaintenancerecordincludingoilrefill/change,changeorrepairofmachinepartsandtable.月度維護記錄需包括加機油的補充/更換，零部件/臺板的維修/更換Rovingmechanicatsewingfloors.車間里流動/共享設(shè)備23Brokenneedlepolicy斷針管理Brokenneedlecontrolpolicyinplace:張貼斷針管理條例Writtenprocedures/flowchartdisplayed展示換針的程序和流程圖Brokenneedlechangeprocedureandrecord;斷針更換程序和記錄Actiontoberecordedforunfoundbrokenparts.沒有找全斷針部分的處理行動Aswellasabrokenneedleproceduretheremustbeapolicyinplacetoroutinelychangeneedles.完善的斷針管理流程和固定的換針地方24Sewinglines車縫線Approvedsamplewithcomments,trimcard&updatedtechpack:確認樣與評語，輔料卡和最新的工藝單Visibleatsewinglineandeasilyaccessible;放在當眼處和便于取用比對translatedinlocallanguage使用當?shù)卣Z言Informationboardsattheendofthesewingline,listingdatasuchas:生產(chǎn)詳情表設(shè)在車縫線后面，包括以下內(nèi)容Feed-onquantity計劃產(chǎn)量Targetquantity目標產(chǎn)量Feed-offquantity實際產(chǎn)量Defectiverate次品比率RFT(Right-first-time)rate良品比率MostrecentTOP3defectsoftheline線上比率最高的3大問題Completedbythelinesupervisor線長的工作Anyqualityissuefindings發(fā)現(xiàn)的品質(zhì)問題Bottle-neckoperation影響產(chǎn)能的問題25Sewingline(cont’d)Machineadjustment設(shè)備調(diào)校Verifystitchingdensity(SPI)&tensiondailyoranynewoperation/newstylestarted.每天/換工序/換款時檢查設(shè)備線跡密度和松緊Mock-ups/standardoperation:操作標準Aneffectivewayofcommunicatingstandardsamongsewers,supervisors&QC

在工人/線長/主管或QC中建立暢通有效的溝通途徑Settingtheacceptablespecimenofeachcriticaloperations為每個工序設(shè)定可接受的標準26Sewingline(cont’d)Systematicprocedureinplace:Roving(in-line)QC:巡檢Evidenceshowsalloperationareinspectedaminimumofevery2hours.每2小時的巡檢記錄Records/systemsshowingtheproblemsareidentified,documented,corrected&followuponcorrections.記錄/系統(tǒng)上可以找到發(fā)現(xiàn)的問題，記錄，改正和跟進的方案Closecommunicationwiththeend-lineQCtocalibratewhethertheproblemfindingsarealignedorcorrected.與終檢QC統(tǒng)一所出現(xiàn)問題的檢驗標準27Sewingline車縫Systematicprocedureinplace(cont’d):End-lineQC:終檢100%checkingthefinishedgarmentsattheworkstationwithsufficientspace&wellilluminated;在充足的位置和燈光下百分百檢驗成品Visualreferenceofdefectavailable.有瑕疵問題參照樣Consistentinspectionsequencethroughoutallgarments(Method);按統(tǒng)一順序檢查所有成品Defectivefindingsaredocumentedbykeydefectitems,e.g.brokenstitches,skippedstitches,puckeringseam/stitches,hole,stain,…檢驗記錄上標記以下主要問題，如斷線，跳線，車線/拼縫皺縮，破洞，油污等Defectivegarmentsareseparatedintoidentifiedboxessuchasrepairs,stainsorseconds瑕疵品分別堆放，如返修，洗污或二等品Randomlycheckthemeasurementsanddocument

抽量尺寸并記錄28SewinglineSystematicprocedureinplace(cont’d):Dailyqualitybriefing:品質(zhì)日記Atendofdayorfirstthinginthemorning,QAManagertoholdashortbriefingwiththerovingQC/endlineQCs,thelinesupervisorandthemechanictoanalyzethedefectivereportrecordsandidentifytheTOP3Defectsforsolution.每天的早上或晚上，品質(zhì)主管召集巡檢QC/終檢QC，線長和機修工一起分析研究報告上前3個主要問題的解決方案Ifthisprocessiseffectivethenthetop3shouldbedifferentdaily!如果這些解決方案是有效的，那么出現(xiàn)在每天報告上的前3個主要問題應(yīng)該是不相同的29Sewingline(cont’d)Housekeeping車間維護Clean&tidy;干凈和整齊Allsewingmachinetables,workstations&binsmustbefreeoftape,stickers&snags;所有設(shè)備臺，工作位置和工具柜不應(yīng)該有貼紙和破損Cutpanelorsemi-productmustbewellcoveredandkeptproperly;裁片和半成品應(yīng)該覆蓋和擺放在適當?shù)牡胤絅owhite(orlight)colorgoodsmixedwithdarkcolorrunningatthesamesewinglineorkeptatthesamestoragerack.深淺色的產(chǎn)品不可以在同一線上生產(chǎn)或擺放在同一地方Lightorwhitecoloredgarmentsshouldbekeptinpolybagsthroughouttheproductionprocess.淺色產(chǎn)品在整個生產(chǎn)過程必須用膠袋包裹305.Finishing&PackingControls后整和包裝

Thisareaalsoneedstobeeffectivelyengineeredtoensureseparationofgoodsbycustomer,style,colorandsize.Thiswillassistinpreventingunnecessarypackingerrors.產(chǎn)品按照客戶，款式，顏色和尺碼分開堆放，可以防止或避免包裝錯誤PackingareaisC-TPATcompliancewhereallpackedgoodsarelocatedinanenclosedareathatallowonlyauthorizedpersonneltoenter.包裝部是反恐管制區(qū)域，成品箱只能存放在封閉區(qū)內(nèi)，只有活動授權(quán)人員可以進入封閉區(qū)31Buttoningsection(ifseparatefrommainproductionfloor)紐扣部門（是否不在生產(chǎn)車間內(nèi)）Apreventivemaintenanceprogramandroutinecleaningprocedureforequipment.設(shè)備的保養(yǎng)和日常清潔程序Eachbuttonholemustbelock-stitched,cleanlycutwithnorawedges;所有鈕門必須鎖底，開口位整齊沒有毛口Eachbuttonmustbelock-stitchedbyLockstitchButtoningMachine.所有紐扣必須使用有底線鎖底的釘鈕車TheuseofManuallyOperatedPressestoapplysnapsisprohibited.

四合扣等扣子不接受使用手工操作的設(shè)備32Pressingsection燙燙部門Ensurethecleanlinessoftheareaandallpressingcovers.Pressingcoversshouldberoutinelychangedtoavoidthetransferofdirttogarments.熨燙區(qū)域和熨臺布必須整潔，熨燙臺布需每天更換，以避免衣服沾染其他顏色或臟污AllironswherenecessaryequippedwithTeflonshoes.如有需要熨斗需套上熨斗套Propertemplateormarkingusedtomaintainthegarmentshapeandmeasurement.熨燙時使用模板或在熨燙臺上按紙板畫出基本版型，保證衣服的版型和尺寸Pressingstandardisbriefedandsetforguidance.熨燙標準需簡明清晰Nohighpilesofironedproducts.熨燙好的衣服不要堆疊擺放33Finalchecking終檢Finalinspectionbeforepacking:包裝前終檢Briefingthecriticalcheckingpointstoinspectors向檢驗員提示檢驗重點Garmentinspectionsequenceisconsistentthroughoutallgarments:成衣的檢驗順序必須一致Inspectionfindingsareidentified,classified,recordedandreportedtomanagementforcorrection;有問題的成衣需分類并記錄向管理匯報，以便統(tǒng)計返修Workstationprovidessufficientspace&wellilluminated;檢驗工作位需有充足的空間和燈光Visualreferenceavailable.有檢驗標準樣Inspectorsaretrainedtomeasureaspercustomermanual:檢驗員量尺需經(jīng)過培訓(xùn)以到達客戶要求AllgarmentsmustbecheckedonKeypoints.所有成衣必須量度重要部位Updatesizespecavailable使用最新的尺寸表Discrepanciesarereportedtomanagementforcorrection如有差異